There are two types of Prosecco – a mass-produced, chemo-industrial cocktail from machine-harvested grapes grown in the indifferent flatlands, and a carefully nurtured, precise product hand-picked from the warm slopes around Conegliano and Valdobbiadene. The Spagnol family (well, the branch we work with) are firmly in the latter camp, proud custodians of some of the best hillside vineyards and making balanced, minerally and delicious Prosecco a world away from the swill that fills supermaket shelves. Marco, along with his brothers, are now firmly in charge of the estate and have every vintage brings new surprises – a new cuvée, another dog (they have plenty!), and always a small yet discernible improvement in quality.
For aficionados of artisanal Prosecco, the Spagnols’ style is instantly recognizable – relying on the natural salinity of hillside-cultivated grapes for structure and flavour built up over a relatively long and slow fermentation, rather than the slapdash addition of sugar or the devil-may-care quick ferments favoured by larger producers. Each wine from the family therefore has precisely detailed fruity and floral notes with finely-etched minerality on the palate.