Region: France, Alsace Size: 14ha Viticulture: Organic (Not Certified)
Aging Jean’s Boxler’s wines is like making origami – the young wines are stark and beautiful, like a perfect square of paper. With each year, each fold, the flavours seem less extravagant, the acidity less obvious and intense, as if the wine was turning in on itself. These changes are sharply geometric, and not always clearly for the better.
The wines can become reserved, perplexing, and with no possibility of a happy resolution, especially with the Rieslings from the Grand Cru sites. Then, just as inexplicably, a flower or butterfly becomes apparent; a previously flat piece of paper now fills a third dimension. The wines still show their origins (terroir, vintage) transparently, but with additional presence and complexity.
Jean achieves this hypnotic effect through honest, hard work – organic viticulture, primarily by hand (not certified), manual, late harvesting, according to his instinct, no yeast additions, and letting each wine find its own equilibrium (the wines are often not completely dry). He adds a small dose of sulfur at bottling, given the risk of refermentation from the residual sugar, and the wines inevitably sell out before the next vintage.
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